Note: This first appeared in the Vacaville Reporter on June 18, 2013
The 2004 movie, "Sideways," is about two buddies spending a weekend together in wine country. Jack, played by Thomas Hayden Church, is a fun-loving actor who is looking for one last fling before his wedding the following weekend. Miles, played by Paul Giamatti is a failed writer and wine aficionado of the most tiresome variety. He talks about wine in that annoying way, "Quaffable, but ...far from transcendent .. just the faintest soupçon of asparagus and just a flutter... ah, of nutty Edam cheese."
Miles rhapsodizes about pinot noir but is clearly "over" merlot. When Jack begs him to please be polite if someone chooses merlot at dinner, he responds, "No, if anyone orders merlot, I'm leaving. I am NOT drinking any fucking merlot."
With that fateful line, Miles initiated what came to be known as the Sideways Effect in the wine economy. Merlot sales slid and pinot noir sales soared as this low-budget film became a classic.
Merlot, a less tannic, sometimes wishy-washy alternative to cabernet sauvignon, is just one example line of a wine fashion to move from hot to not. Chardonnay, the wine everyone seemed to favor in the nineties, suffered a similar reversal when drinkers revolted against the overly oaked flavors in a movement called ABC (Anything But Chardonnay). And, now that I think about it, when was the last time you heard someone get excited about a chenin blanc?
Pity the poor farmer who, whenever wine fashions change, must rip out vineyards, replant, and then wait four years for the vines to bear harvestable fruit. After all, farmers are business people, they must grow what the market demands. In 2012, the California Department of Food and Agriculture's crop report listed the average price for French colombard grapes, a wine we never hear of anymore, at $300 a ton. Pinot noir, at $1,500 a ton, was five times that. No wonder pinot planting is on the rise.
But there's the rub. Pinot noir is picky. It doesn't grow well in most places. It likes a cool breeze and a chilly fog, like that in the Carneros region of Napa, the Willamette Valley in Oregon and the Burgundy region of France. The grapes are small, yields are low and its thin skin make is susceptible to bunch rot (which always sounded vaguely locker room to me).
Coaxing the silky tannins and ruby colors, that make wine lovers like Miles cry out in pinot ecstasy, is tricky, too. Winemakers will take extra steps, sometimes with a "cold soak," which is a chance for the juice and skins to hang out together before fermentation, or by pulling out some of the juice to boost the skin to juice ratio during fermentation.
My advice is not to skimp on a pinot noir. I keep looking, but I have never tasted a really good pinot noir under $30, one that expressed the "lively, sprightly essences of place," to borrow the words of wine guru Jancis Robinson. But maybe I'm sounding like Miles and getting tiresome.
If you're more like Jack and just want to have fun, you might try 24 Knots, a wine I received as a sample this week. Named for the wind that cools the hot Salinas vineyards, it's the perfect gift for a sailor or weather geek, someone who will find the wind diagram on the label's two-toned black map of the Central Coast as fascinating as the wine inside.
Whether you're a Miles or a Jack, there's a wine for everyone. Share it with friends.